Snap-Shot of Surfing’s History: Noll, Velzy, and Body Glove
A closer look at the DNA that makes up the sport of surfing reveals an immensely deep heritage of revolutionary characters and time-periods. There have been countless pioneers throughout the days before us whose style and innovation have paved the way to make this modern era of surfing the wonder that it is.
One of the most crucial and vital time periods for surfing and its evolution came during the 1940’s on the beach cities of Los Angeles. I was recently given the privilege of sitting down to chat with a man by the name of Chuck L. Riley. I’m sure there are few, if any, of our readers that are in anyway familiar with his name. What made me so intrigued to sit and pick his brain was his growing-up and experiencing life as a teenager while in the midst of one of surfings great revolutions.
His description of the vibrant atmosphere that surrounded the communities of Manhattan, Hermosa, and Redondo Beaches during the mid-1940’s almost took me right there as he described what it was like to see the rise of such influential giants as Greg Noll, Dale Velzy, and Bob & Bill Meistrell right before his very eyes.
Here are some of my favorite excerpts of my conversation with Chuck L. Riley-
5ones - Chuck, thank you so much for your time, we really appreciate this. So tell us, what was it like growing up in those towns during the ’40s?
Chuck Riley - Oh God, it was incredible… Hermosa, Redondo, and Manhattan Beach were wonderful communities to grow-up in, especially during that time. Each city had phenomenal beaches to surf at and piers to fish from. Spring through Fall brought fabulous runs of Halibut, Barracuda, and Bonita and kept the piers packed with a melting pot of personalities. There were men like Jim Thorpe, Oscar Bessonette, and a young kid by the name of Greg Noll.
5’s - Greg Noll? Da Bull? What was he like at the time?
C.R. - This skinny little tow-head was one of the cutest kids to ever grace the Manhattan Beach Pier. He had a tremendous energy about him and was all over the place. All who knew him really enjoyed him. He was given the nickname ‘Termite’ and there was no indication at the time that he world one day be referred to as ‘Da Bull’ and go on to pioneer big-wave surfing. Bobby Meistrell loves to tell the story of his having to pull Greg out of the surf when he got in a little over his head one day. Who would have ever known this little rascal would go on to ride the worlds biggest waves someday and become one of surfings greatest legends?
5’s - Unreal!, ‘Da Bull’ used to be the ‘Termite’? Now you mentioned the Meistrells, they are the founders of Body Glove, correct?
C.R. - Correct! Bobby and (the late)Billy Meistrell were some of my closest high-school buddies. They are absolutely fantastic people. They were members of the great El Segundo swim teams that ended up compromising most of the 1952 Olympic Water-Polo team. The Meistrells were world-class skin divers. They developed “Dive & Surf”(which still runs today) and ultimately went on to create Body Glove.
5’s - The surfing scene in the 40’s…..What was that like? What were guys riding on?
C.R. - I can remember it like it was yesterday. I was 11 yrs. old on the south of Manhattan Beach Pier and a man by the name of Al Holland brought down some of the 1st hollow, plywood boards. There was a puka in back you had to plug so it would stay afloat and they were around 7ft. in length. They were surfed by all until Velzy began making his first balsa boards. Dale Velzy was a fine natural athlete himself, an excellent surfer, and all of the girls sure loved Dale. You want to talk about passion for what they did, those days the guys surfed 12 months out of the year wearing only trunks!
5’s - It really sounds like it was an incredible era to grow up in and experience?
C.R. - It was, it really was.
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Posted by Shaun on Tuesday, February 19th, 2008 in Surfing.
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